Greenhouse Flower Production
Gardening in Labrador West can be difficult at times because of our short growing season. Many people in the area have small backyard greenhouses which give them a jump start on the growing season. Why start seeds indoors? There are numerous reasons. Many annuals and vegetables have such a long growing season that they won't flower or fruit unless they get a head start indoors, especially in the North. Many things have to be taken into consideration before starting.
Containers
There are all kinds of seed-starting containers on the marktet: peat pots, Jiffy Sevens, and flats. Any container for starting seeds must have holes in the bottom to allow excess water to escape. Start your sowing process by assembling your containers and making sure they are clean and have drainage holes. Always sow about twice as many seeds as the number of plants you want since all of the seeds won't germinate and some will be lost in the transplanting process.
Growing Medium
Seeds can be started in any of several mixtures or in soil substitutes, such as vermiculite or sifted sphagum. Seeds started in sterile soil-less mixtures such as Pro-Mix or Jiffy Mix are protected from damping off.
Sowing Seed
Fill a flat within 1/4 inch of the top patting mixture and level the surface with a flat board. Spread the seeds in rows or over the soil evenly and not too thickly, then press them in with the flat side of the board. Cover them, remembering that they should be buried to a depth of four times their own diameter. Newly planted seeds should be watered with a very fine spray. Next the seeds should be covered with a plastic bag, or a humidity dome to seal in moisture. Put them in a place where the temperature remains at about 70-75 degrees farenheit.
Moisture and Humidity
Moisture and humidity are critical for seed germination. The soil must be kept evenly moist but never soaking wet. If there is too little moisture the seeds will not grow; too much and the seeds will rot.
Light
The final environment factor is light, but one equally as important as the others. Some seeds require light to germinate while others need darkness to sprout. If light is needed the solution is not to cover the seeds. If darkness is necessary then cover the seeds completely with growing medium, unless they are too fine to be covered. Once the seeds have germinated they will need ample light to develop into strong, healthy plants. Using fluorescent lights or growing seedlings in the greenhouse is the best. If the light is too low the plants will be unhealthy, tall, and spindly.
Germinating Under Light
If you have the space, growing seeds under lights is the most productive method. Place seedling flats under lights for 24 hours per day until growth occurs. After that the light duration should be cut down to 12 to 14 hours per day. Once the plants start to grow the light source should be 3 to 6 inches above the top of the seedlings. If the leaves turn downwards the lights are too close; if they are growing too tall the lights are too far away.
Seedling Care
Watering is the most important factor in seedling care. The root systems of new seedlings are not yet well developed, so the growing medium must be kept moist but not soaked. If the soil starts to lighten in color, that is a sign that it is drying out. Check every day to see if water is needed. Watering from the bottom is best until the seedlings reach a fairly good size. Once the true leaves appear (the first growth you will see are seed leaves) it is time to start fertilizing. Use a soluble plant food (20-20-20) at 1/4 the label strength increasing to 1/2 as the plant matures. When bottom-watering your seedlingss, mix the fertilizer into the water.
Transplanting
It is not generally advised to plant seedlings directly from seed into the garden. The seedlings should be transplanted to a larger container or at least thinned out. After the seedlings have developed four true leaves it is time to transplant. There is one interesting fact to be aware of when transplanting: The weakest seedlings in annual flower mixtures often produce the most unusual colors and types. Use a spoon or a ladel to lift the seedling from the flat, taking care not to break any more roots than necessary. A small amount of soil should cling to the seedling's roots. Always handle a seedling by its leaves and never by the stems; if damage occurs, a seedling will grow a new leaf but never a new stem. Lower the seedling into the hole you made in the soil, placing it a bit deeper than it was growing in the seed flat. Transplants will often droop because they have lost some of their roots, but they will recover if properly cared for.
Hardening Off
One week before indoor-grown seedlings are shifted to the outdoors start to harden them off. This process acclimates the soft and tender plants, which hace been protected from wind and cold, and gradually gets them used to their new environment. Move the trays of plants to a sheltered, shady area such as under a tree or shrub. After two or three days give them half a day of full sun, increasing the exposure gradually to a full day.